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Junkyardfiction
11-20-2009, 20:40
Welcome to shotgun deer season! Unfortunately I will not be on the hunt this beautiful southern Illinois weekend as I have to journey north (where my permit isn’t legal) to visit family, but dog-gone if when December rolls around I won’t be living in the woods! Already last night I saw folks making camp at the side of the road, what a wonderful sight, in hopes of bagging the big one.

Needless to say, my deer-hunt story is to be saved for later—I would instead like to take this time to introduce you to a good friend of mine, Joe Reidhead. Rock climbing, bouldering more specifically, is one of southern Illinois’ greatest hidden treasures, and Joe is one of the biggest fans of bouldering I know. That said, I would like to post here, instead of my regular ramblings, a little introductory column that Joe has written for ya’ll, enjoy!

Why Do We Climb?

On a recent weekday afternoon, cloistered deep in a forest of Southern Illinois, a group of six humans congregated on a steep hillside ringing a lily-covered lake. Leaves floated through the air, graced by sunlight on their journey down. With backs to the water, the six humans gazed peacefully upon worn, weather-shaped sandstone. The intense power of the overhanging rock washed over them and down into the lake below. The receding sun cast a soft glow across the lip of the rock face.
Then, one of the six stepped forward onto the rock, and with flowing movements, pulled through the roof and over the lip, grasping the sandstone features for humanity for the first time. Elation flowed through the small, isolated tribe. As if synchronized, the other members followed the route with grace.
After this act, the tribe looked upon the section of sandstone with reverence and awe. Inspired to further demonstrate their faith, despite the waning sunlight.

This is why I climb. This is why many of my friends and myself have, at various times, chosen to abandon jobs providing financial security and posh retirement packages. It is why I recently quit my comfortable, but boring job and a week later turned down a career-making job offer. It is why many other climbers have relocated to Southern Illinois, taken part-time or low paying jobs, let their lease run out, and moved to the Shawnee. All in the pursuit of rock and the joy that comes from climbing, without ropes, a twenty foot boulder on a Fall day in Southern Illinois.

Of all the styles of rock climbing in existence, my favorite is bouldering, which also happens to be the most prevalent in the area. To boulder, I grab my crash pad (a foam landing pad), a pair of shoes, and some hand chalk (although these are not a requirement), and head out to my favorite area of the week. The hike to the boulders or cliff line is a wonderful time to clear one’s mind and soul, and prepare for the challenge ahead.
Then comes the climbing—ascending anywhere from five to thirty-foot routes, without ropes or the sounds of civilization, surrounded by and integrating one’s self with the beauty in nature. It is an amazing experience. An experience I will continue to seek out the rest of my life, and out of which a way of life is created.

Probably, many of the readers have seen such rock, and perhaps even engaged in bouldering themselves. So, some time soon, go to some rock, whether it is developed for bouldering or just a place you know—and climb. Let it lift your soul and carry away your worries. And please, be careful!

gretchensteele
11-21-2009, 05:09
Thanks for sharing!
Does Joe boulder over at Piney Creek Ravine as well?

Gazza
11-23-2009, 20:34
Nicely put. I'm right there with you.
When I was a kid, the whole family would would load up the station wagon and spend the day at Ohiopyle, PA. I was typically the only one not sitting, staring at the rapids and boats running them. I spent my time climbing over, sliding down and jumping between the tumbled boulders. Friction, angles and force. I can still feel the cool gritty sandstone. And mom shouting "Get down from there!"

Bob
11-24-2009, 05:20
COOL! But since when does fun need a "sport name" What kids doesn't want to climb a rock? LOL I even think there is competitive tree climbing!!! Heck keep it simple and call it all fun!!! Great read AK and Joe!

(This ain't Banjo Joe is it?)

joereidhead
11-24-2009, 21:56
Piney creek certainly does have some rock. However, others and myself decided not to climb there owing to the presence of rock art and its status as a natural area.

There is indeed competitive tree climbing!

Bob, you hit on what I believe to be one of the core issues/conflicts within rock climbing: sport vs fun. I can talk for hours, even days, on this issue (and have). Just a couple weeks ago Southern Illinois had its first outdoor [I]bouldering[I] competition (held at Jackson Falls, which is near Ozark). This certainly represents the evolution of climbing on boulders for fun to climbing on them for sport. There are even "rules" and "ethics" that have developed in different parts of the country and the world concerning this type of climbing. And, humans being humans, people want to climb harder routes on the rock and compete with others. Advocates are also pushing to get climbing, including bouldering, into the olympics.

Myself, I believe in having fun. And fortunately for me, Southern Illinois, with its many cliffs and boulders, happens to be one of the best and least known areas in the USA for my type of fun. (Note: I am a reformed competitive climber).

And hey, now days, instead of being yelled at to "get down from there," there are parents yelling at their kids to "get up there!"

gretchensteele
11-25-2009, 04:26
And hey, now days, instead of being yelled at to "get down from there," there are parents yelling at their kids to "get up there!"

and that's a good thing... I admire your choice not to disturb the natural area or the rock art at Piney Creek -